100 days!

Celebrating 100 days since Wil hung up his boots!

One hundred days ago, we became new liveaboards on the hard in Beaufort, working desperately hard everyday for a month to get the boat in the water. Once in the water, we went through almost every possible breakdown with engines, electrical, and refrigeration. But, our spirits didn’t break! The kids experienced their first offshore passage to New England. We’ve all felt seasick, but now we can anchor in a rolly harbor or have bumpy seas, and we’re okay. We continued to sort through our belongings and get rid of more things that cluttered the boat. (Not sure if that will ever end!) We started a new school year and made new friends. We sailed with whales and cruised Massachusetts and Maine. Now, we wait for the hurricanes to subside, and we will continue our journey south.

We have had our ups and downs as we transitioned from landlubbers to cruisers, and there is still transition left to go. We are thrilled to be achieving our dreams, as well as cherishing every new experience the world is showing us.

We’ve come a long way over these past 100 days, and there are many more miles to go! Looking forward to seeing what the next 100 days will bring us.

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getting aquainted in Camden

August 30, 2012

some Maine charm on the way to Camden

how sturdy is this house?

bald eagle on the hill top

Sailing to Camden was absolutely exhilarating! The wind was blowing about 15 knots out of the southwest, and we were headed northwest. For the first time since Jewel Island, we were able to hoist the sails and turn off the engines. We even started with a reefed main, but shook the reef when we wanted to catch up with our buddy boat. We couldn’t have a full-keeled monohull win the race! Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough distance to pass the other boat before reaching Camden. After giving them a head start, we were catching up, but then it was time to drop the sails and enter the harbor.

We had two reasons for sailing to Camden. This was the weekend for their annual Windjammer Festival, and several of the boats from the Magellan Net were going for the festivities. This would be a chance to experience some local culture, as well as get to know more of the voices that we hear and speak to on the radio.

After securing anchor in the very crowded and rolly Camden Harbor, we headed straight for the local library to find and meet the catamaran family with 3 girls. Once we had all three kid boats together, we hit up a corner food market, before returning to our boats.

All three kid boats were anchored within a stone’s throw of each other, so the kids could easily yell back and forth. At one point, several of the kids got out their musical instruments, and played music to each other across the water. Colin hooked his acoustic guitar to the amplifier in order to make sure everyone could hear him!

Our first evening was spent visiting with the other kid boats. The adults hunkered down inside, while the kids played outside in the cool of the night.

keeping an eye for the other kids

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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good-bye seal bay, hello seal bay

August 28 – August 29, 2012

After much indecision as to our next move, we finally decided to say good-by to Seal Bay, and began a northerly course to Castine where we could possibly bump into another cruising boat that we’d met in Beaufort. Going north was backtracking about 20 miles, but it would be worth the fun.

Once the kids were settled into their school day, we picked up the anchor and exited Seal Bay. We had been underway for about thirty minutes when we received a VHF call from the kid cruising boat we’d met in Somes Harbor. They were approaching us from the bow, and they were headed to Seal Bay to see if they could find us. We ditched our original plans, did a 180 degree turn, and returned to Seal Bay. The kids were thrilled with the idea of some long-awaited kid time.

Shortly after re-anchoring, almost in our exact spot from earlier, another cruising boat from the same morning radio net, dinghied over with an invitation for drinks on their boat for later. We had finally caught up with the social life we’d been missing over the last little while. Even though we enjoy the solitude, there are times when it’s good to share cruising experiences with others.

Over the next couple of days, and after school was completed, fun was to be had. Colin clicked with the other boys. They sailed a sailing dinghy, went swimming in the frigid waters, and monkeyed around on the boats. Justine would play with the boys, but when things weren’t her cup of tea, then she would hang with the adults or read a book. She was waiting for a boat full of girls that would soon be arriving on the scene. We spent an afternoon hiking with the other family, and we had the other boats over for pre-dinner drinks.

boys enjoying some sailing time

achieved a circumnavigation of Penobscot Island

Getting to and from our hike is a story to be told. When you mention the mud in Maine to another boater, they all nod their heads in understanding. Every time you pull up the anchor, the anchor chain is caked with this thick, heavy mud that must be washed off, or you’ll overload your boat with its weight. It was this mud we had to contend with when getting the dinghies ashore.

Our 11 1/2 foot RIB dinghy with its 25 hp Yamaha is just too big to get all the way to the water’s edge without getting out of it first. This meant walking in the mud the rest of the way. We were aware of the mud, but until we actually stuck our feet in the mud, we truly had no idea.

As soon as my first foot touched the soft ooze, it seemed to immediately be sucked down and glued in place. My shoes were Keens with straps, but they were not up for this mud challenge. We literally sank to above our ankles and could not move. Anyone with shoes was doomed to be stuck, and anyone without shoes risked cutting their feet on the sharp mussels and other shells. With every step, I’d have to reach into the water with my hands, re-angle my shoes, and pull them up. Then I was free for the next step, only to sink right back down again. By the time we reached the shore, our feet, legs, hands, and arms were caked in the smelly mud. Our own personal spa treatment!

Once we were safely on the rocks, I looked over towards our new found friends. They had barely a speck of dirt on them! They had been able to get their smaller dinghy closer to the shore, and they had gone without their shoes. We must have been a spectacle for them to watch!

On the return trip, I managed to provide more entertainment for the crowd. While going through the same step-bend-lift procedure I’d come up with for myself, I managed to lose my balance and fall backwards, leaving me sitting in the mud with water to my mid torso. At that point, it was time to remove the shoes, regardless of the fact that I’d just cut my hand in three places when I’d fallen. It was definitely much easier to get through the mud without shoes, but we just had to step carefully. Maine mud . . . not a force to be reckoned with.

Seal Bay had been a refreshing place to be, but it was time to see what else Maine had to offer. Camden’s annual Windjammer Festival would be our next stop.

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tons of fun in seal bay

As par for the course, when we departed Somes Harbor, we had only a small idea where we would end up by the end of the day. We were aiming for Seal Bay, but we weren’t sure if we would take one or two days to get there. With Wil at the helm, wind and currents happened to be in our favor, and we ended up at Seal Bay. Along the way, I did some “house” cleaning, and the kids got to work on their necklaces.

Seal Bay was the first anchorage we found that’s large, protected from the all wind directions, and secluded. It is also it’s own little world. As we neared Seal Bay, there were seals on the rocks basking in the sun. An occasional seal would also swim past. We have found the seals to be quite shy, and they quickly dive as you get near.

seals just before we arrived at Seal Bay

basking in the sun's warmth

For our first two nights in Seal Bay, we anchored away from any other boats. We had a ton of laundry to wash, and we would be strewn with clothes on every line. The whole team was involved in the clothes washing routine. As I stood on the transom with a bucket of salt water and a bucket of fresh water, I washed the clothes. The rest of the crew would either bring more clothes to me, or hang the wet clothes out to dry. I washed until there was no more room to hang anything else. Later, Colin’s favorite pair of blue jeans escaped from the clothes pins, so Wil “fished” for a couple of hours trying to catch the two-legged item. No such luck.

While in our first location in Seal Bay, we all had some simple fun. We circumnavigated Penobscot Island in the dinghy, a feat that must be done at high tide. While letting the dinghy glide without the engine we’d listen to the silence until it was broken by the osprey’s cry. We watched a pair of osprey fly overhead. We explored the most incredible rock faces that rose high out of water.

incredible rock formation

incredible rock face

horse muzzling an eagle ~ can you see it?

On another day, Wil and Colin explored a small rock pile island, and discovered just how stuck your feet can become in the incredibly thick mud. Colin brought out his BB and paintball guns, and both kids had fun firing at the rocks behind us. (the paintballs are biodegradable and turn to powder after they dry) I stretched out a lot of muscle soreness with some yoga on deck while enjoying the solitude and beauty of the anchorage . . . after the kids were done shooting.

Soon the weather would be changing with the possibility of thunderstorms, and we needed to decide whether to move further into the anchorage, or head out in search of a new anchorage. After a long day of school, we decided to move further up the bay where we knew we wouldn’t have to worry with any strong winds. Fortunately, we only had rain.

We would say good-bye to Seal Bay the next morning . . . or so we thought.

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acadia national park

August 24, 2012

On the day of our hike in Acadia National Park, we dinghied ashore in time to catch the 9:30 a.m. bus to Bar Harbor. Once in Bar Harbor we purchased a park pass at the park’s information building near Village Green. Since we were on foot, the pass cost $5/adult, the kids were free, and they were good for a week. With our passes in hand, we caught the South Beach bus to Sieur de Mont to begin our trek up the mountain.

The Acadia trails are the most impressive trails we’ve ever seen. We began our hike along a small lake. The path along the lake was constructed by creative placement of large boulders. There was a feeling of exploring an off-beaten path without a trail to follow, but yet we were on a trail.

Once to the end of the lake, the path turned upwards towards Dorr Mountain. This was the beginning of Ladder Trail. Again, much of the trail was of creative rock placement, this time in the form of steps leading us up the mountain. The steps were big, and our thighs were burning. We were getting the cardiovascular workout that we’ve all been missing for the past few years!

As we neared the top of Ladder Trail, we found the reason for the trail name. There was an iron ladder attached to the rock face, allowing hikers to briefly experience some rock climbing.

come on guys!

cute little frogs

Ladder Trail, here we come

narrow walkways

almost too narrow for some

the reason for Ladder Trail

only the beginning of many steps

more steps

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we got higher, the views became more vast. Once we reached the top, we had gorgeous views of Bar Harbor, Frenchman Bay, and all the islands on the eastern side of Mount Desert Island. We found a rock face near the top where we ate our lunch while enjoying the beauty. We also each savored the long awaited candy bars which we had purchased in Bar Harbor. Without an income and having a tight budget, the candy bar treat was a special deal!

the last blueberry!

view of Bar Harbor from Dorr Mountain

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After lunch, we crossed over the top and began our trek down the other side. Whoever said going down was easier than going up? At times it was a challenge to keep our downward momentum safely in check.

Maine's red squirrel

finally got that cone

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We followed various trail names along the way, but Hemlock Trail was another trail named for exactly what it was. It was a path completely shaded by tall hemlock trees. It was like being in part of a spooky book or movie.

part of Jesup Path

natural beauty

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At the day’s end, and with exhausted legs, we bused it back to Somes Harbor. It felt good to be back on the boat and relax with the feet up.

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somes sound

Our journey from Kimball Island to Somes Sound was another long day of motorsailing, but it was completely worth the effort.

dodging lobster pots continuously

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we approached Mount Desert Island and the Acadia National Park area, the elevation of the land rose in absolute beauty. It was like we had entered a different world. Even the sailboats were of a different time. Wooden schooners, gaff rigged boats, and many other traditional boats. These people were those of true sailors, all sails out and gliding slowly through the water under the light winds. It might take them the entire day to get across the harbor, but they were enjoying the lazy August day on the water. After all of our motorsailing and trying to reach upwind destinations by the day’s end, I couldn’t help but look at them with a certain envy.

racing near Southwest Harbor

moored on Somes Sound

We entered Somes Sound, the only natural fjord within the contiguous United States. We traveled the entire length of it, and arrived at Somes Harbor in Somesville at the northern end of the fjord. Again, it was like a different world, so protected from any wind, as well as a much warmer temperature.

Upon our entrance to Somes Harbor, we noticed a boat whose name we had heard over the daily SSB radio net that we have been listening to since we started cruising. The Magellen Net consists of European and American cruisers with long range cruising plans. Once our anchor was in place and we’d had some time to tidy the boat, the other family dinghied over to introduce themselves. They had been in Somes Harbor for 5 days and provided us with all the information we needed for getting around Mount Desert Island. The dinghy dock location, that the local library was having a book sale, where to catch the bus, where to get groceries, where to buy a park pass, and where to hike or rent bikes. We were thrilled to have had such a wonderful welcoming!

more rocky shore

sea stars at low tide

would love hang out on that deck!

fog just outside Somes Harbor

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next day, after school was complete, we dinghied ashore for a bus ride to Bar Harbor and some grocery shopping. The Island Explorer buses are extremely convenient and free. There are 7 bus routes that cover the island. In addition to their regular stops, they will drop you off or pick you up anywhere along the route. They also have bike racks on the front for the cyclists who need a ride. While we were in the quaint town of Bar Harbor, we also explored the bustling waterfront.

 

 

When we returned to the boat, we laid out our plans for our stay in Somes Harbor. The following day, we did school, boat work, and some paddleboarding. After a spending a whole day on the boat, the kids got the next day off from school for some hiking in Acadia National Park.

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kimball island

We departed Long Cove, not knowing which island would provide us with our dinnertime views. Kimball Island ended up being that island. We found our first secluded anchorage on the northwest side of the island. Peaceful and gorgeous.

a sea of lobster pots

these rocks weren't there when we entered the harbor!

 

nature's amazing beauty

more amazing beauty

lobster pots can be found almost anywhere

 

unique beauty

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

anchored at Kimball Island

enjoying the solitude

We only stayed one night, but we would have loved to explore the area more. However, the next day we had plans to set out early on an all day voyage to Mount Desert Island in the Acadia National Park. The kids would be doing school while underway.
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school begins

Transitioning to boat living and starting to cruise while the kids were on summer vacation was a great way to adjust to our new life. We didn’t have to worry about a school schedule or whether anyone was motionsick. Now summer fun had come to a close, and it was time to bring out the school books.

Our first day of school went off without a hitch. Everyone was eager to see what the new year had to offer. School was actually a refreshing change in our daily routine.

The kids are excited to be able to do school anywhere on the boat. In the past, while the boat was still in the yard at Jarrett Bay, studies took place in the main salon with noisy boat projects all around us. Now, Colin and I can go forward to the trampolines for history discussions or spelling tests, while Justine concentrates in the quiet of the main salon. Or, she can make herself comfortable a trampoline for some reading.

After our first day of school was complete, we picked up the anchor and departed Long Cove for our next unknown destination.

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eastern egg rock & trouble

By 0730 we had departed Monhegan Island and were headed for Eastern Egg Rock. We let the kids continue to sleep, and we figured we would wake them once we’d found the puffins.

As we neared the tiny, rocky island, Wil was at the helm and I was trying to see if there were puffins in the vicinity. At the same time, we were having to dodge the many lobster pot buoys that float in the waters of Maine. We decided to call the kids on deck, so they could help in the search.

With Wil at the helm, creeping slowly near the rocky shore, the rest of us were trying to spot puffins. The best sighting we got was that of a bald eagle. It was pretty impressive as it flew over the island and then perched upon one of the rocks. There were no puffins to be seen. We had heard that the puffins were there the previous week, but by the time we got to the island, they had already taken off for their winter grounds.

bald eagle resting on Eastern Egg Rock

home to breeding puffins

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

keeping away seagulls?

the nests are numbered

Wil began calling out for us to help him spot lobster pots. The kids and I were hoping to still find a puffin, but also needed to watch the water around us for the pots. Before we knew it, we’d lost track of one pot. Wil took the engines out of gear while we drifted, waiting for the pot to pop out from under the boat. It never showed itself, and we couldn’t tell if we were hooked on it, or not. Wil engaged the starboard engine, and within a split second, it was obvious there was something tangled on the prop. He immediately went back to neutral.

With a knife tied to a boat hook, Wil was able to cut us free from the line to the pot, but the rest of the line and buoy remained under the boat. He did a quick attempt using reverse to see if the line would unwrap itself. Some of the line and the buoy popped out in pieces, but some of it remained in place.

There we were with one engine, in a sea of lobster pots, and the wind blowing us towards a rocky shore. We needed to do our best to not let another lobster pot catch in the other prop. The puffin search came to an abrupt halt, and we sadly moved away from Eastern Egg Rock. The was frustration and disappointment in the air.

As soon as we could reach protection from wind and waves at the next nearest island, we dropped anchor, and Wil went for a very cold swim. With knife in hand, he cut the remaining lobster line from the prop. It appeared that the rest of the line would have come untangled earlier when we had tried reverse, if it wasn’t for the plastic insert to the buoy that had bent itself around the prop. Once the prop was free, Wil took it as an opportune time to scrap some barnacles off both props. Now maybe we could pick up some speed!

Wil and the lobster pot remains

During Wil’s swim, he managed to give himself a nasty cut on his thumb with his knife, as well as scrape a couple of knuckles on the barnacles. You’d think he was bleeding to death with the amount of blood that got scattered all over the transom and cockpit once he was out of the water! We joked that he was trying to attract the sharks.

After the lobster pot ordeal, we continued our journey on a northeast course to Long Cove, a large shallow cove about 9 miles southwest of Rockland. We had to get a good night’s sleep because the kids needed to be fresh for their first day of school.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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whale video

Here is some raw video footage of our whale encounter on Stellwagen Bank.

Humpback Whales ~ August 2012 (raw)

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