May 29 – 31, 2013
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Keep up with us as we sail the world and its many remote places. |
May 29 – 31, 2013
May 22 – 29, 2013
May 20 – 21, 2013
It was nearing sunset when we arrived in Hanamoenaoa Bay at Tahuata. As we were sailing towards the bay, we couldn’t help but notice the large Customs vessel anchored near the entrance. Since we weren’t officially cleared into the French Polynesia yet, we were a tad nervous about our stop in Tahuata.
Atuona in Hiva Oa was where we were planning to clear into the country. However, not only does the Atuona anchorage have a reputation for being extremely rolly, it is also known for causing anchor retrieval issues. Therefore, we made plans to anchor at Tahuata, just 8 miles away, and then figure out how we would deal with clearing in.
Fortunately, when we arrived in Tahuata, the Customs officials were hauling their dinghy out of the water for the night. They had apparently made their rounds within the anchorage, checking everyone’s papers and making occasional inspections. We were flying our quarantine and French courtesy flags, so it was obvious to anyone that we weren’t officially cleared into the country yet. It didn’t take us long to decide on going to Atuona first thing the next morning.
While we thought official business would be the first order of the morning, a group of manta rays feeding in the anchorage became the first item on the agenda. Wil and Colin quickly threw on their swimsuits and followed the rays around the anchorage. Justine was still sleeping, and I was busy prepping the boat for departure.
Once all passengers were back onboard, we started the engines, and motored the 8 miles upwind to Atuona. There is a breakwater wall that most boats anchor behind, but this is the area known for anchor retrieval problems. Therefore, we took the advice of a fellow boater, and anchored outside the breakwater wall. There was quite a bit of swell, and it was 40 feet deep, but it was only for the day. We would quickly do our business, and then leave.
Via last minute email through the SSB, I arranged to meet the local Puddle Jump agent, Sandra, at the main dock. However, there were other cruisers that arrived to the dock before us, and they were all gone by the time we got there. Bewildered and unsure about what to do next, as it’s a long walk to town, we talked with a few people nearby and discovered that a taxi would be arriving soon. Along with some fellow cruisers, it wasn’t too many minutes later that we caught a local cab (a small four-wheel drive truck with canopy bench seating in the truck bed).
In order to be able to pay for our cab ride with Polynesians francs, the cab driver took us first to the bank, and then to the Gendarmerie. So we could have time to explore a bit after clearing in, she offered to pick us up in an hour. We declined and said we would continue our exploring by walking the return trip to the dock.
While we waited for our turn in the Gendarmerie, we hailed Sandra on the VHF, and she arrived within 5 minutes to assist us with our clearance. Since we were part of the Puddle Jump Rally, she had most of our paperwork already filled out. We only had to fill out one form, show our passports, and let her do all the translating. We were amazed at how simple it was. Soon, we bid our farewells to Sandra and headed off to see the town of Atuona.
First, after a month of being somewhat isolated, we desperately wanted to find the grocery store (magasin). Atuona is a quaint town and everything is quite close together. There were a couple of small groceries, a bakery, a hardware store, and roadside farmers selling their goods. The cemetery where famous painter Paul Gauguin is buried was also nearby.
May 20, 2013
Departing Fatu Hiva and sailing to Tahuata was not dull by any means. As we sailed away from Fatu Hiva, we immediately caught two Big Eye Tuna. We had seen where the small fishing boats were sitting just offshore, and sailing past them paid off.
Then, rather than sail directly to Tahuata, we decided to do a “drive-by” at the southern end of Mohotani. When I had visited with the local family in Fatu Hiva, the guy had told us about a great fishing spot where the locals like to go. Sure enough, the southern tip of Mohotani was a spectacular place for fishing! Since it is a nature reserve, we made sure to stay outside the park boundaries.
Just as we arrived to our intended destination, we immediately had a huge fish on the line. It took some time to reel in the large tuna. Unfortunately, just as we were getting ready to pull it from the water, the huge fish managed to get loose, taking with it our best fishing lure, a yellow and black cedar plug.
We had no sooner put in another line when we had another large tuna on the hook. This one was not quite as big as the one that got away, but we successfully managed to get this one onboard. It was another Big Eye Tuna, and weighing about 30+ pounds, it was the largest tuna we’d ever caught.
Soon we were underway again. We trolled up the west coast of Mohotani before heading across to the northern end of Tahuata. It was when we reached the channel between Tahuata and Hiva Oa that we started to catch fish again. Before we knew it we had three more Big Eye Tuna onboard!
By the end of the day, we totaled 70 pounds of tuna meat. As we made our approach to Hanamoenoa Bay at Tahuata, we bagged the tuna into portions for giveaway. The moment the anchor was down, Wil dinghied around the anchorage passing out tuna filets to the many cruising boats. We gave away 30 pounds of meat and still had plenty for ourselves.
In addition to our fish that we’d caught, s/v Sueño had sailed up the western side of Tahuata, and they had 45 pounds of tuna meat onboard. We both arrived at the anchorage at the same time, from opposite directions, with boat loads of tuna. They too shared their catch with the anchorage.
That was our best fishing day ever!
May 16 – 21, 2013
We attended a cruisers’ potluck lunch at the edge of the main soccer field. This was another chance to meet more of the group that had just crossed the Pacific, as well as celebrate Nikolai’s (s/v Voyageur) 15th birthday. There was another game of soccer between the cruising kids, the cruising young-at-heart adults, and a few locals. Rain began to fall, but the soccer game continued. There was no shortage of wet and muddy clothes!
That night, there was another torrential downpour, so we were optimistic about our hike to a nearby waterfall the next day. With all the rain, the waterfall, that was reported to have only been a trickle the day before, was now a beautiful stream of flowing water, and the pool below was clean and fresh. The kids swam and jumped from the rocks above.
Yes, chicken hunting! In the Marquesas, anything outside village limits is considered up for grabs. That means anyone can pick fruit from any tree, or hunt any animal, outside the village. In fact, there used to be about 20 horses that were used for giving tours on the island. However, grazing areas within the village were scarce, so in order to keep them fed, the horses were moved to the grassier highlands. Unfortunately, the horses ended up as meals for some hungry locals. I think I’m happy to report that with our noisy group of kids, the chickens faired a lot better than the horses.
As for our craft hunting, the afternoon turned into a wonderful Marquesan experience. Since Nathalie (s/v Sueño) is not only French Canadian, but also marvelous at public relations, we ended up for an extended visit within one family’s home. We started out by looking at their handmade wood carvings (tikis, war clubs, bowls, and ukuleles). Over the course of the afternoon, we were offered different foods to try; local seed grapes, local apples, bananas, and dried tuna. We learned about their way of life and politics, all in conversational French. Over 20 years ago, I had taken 6 years of French classes, but because it was so long ago, the cobwebs had to be dusted from my memory. I found I was able to understand the gist of most conversations, but my speaking was in dire need of help.
On the Sunday, we were invited to the local church for lunch (~$7 USD per person). We were seated in the churchyard at tables under a large mango tree. Women served each of us a plate of goat with rice, plantains, bananas, and breadfruit. All the food was cooked over an open fire, so it all had a wonderful smoked flavor to it. I have since tried to duplicate the breadfruit recipe on the stovetop, but the delicious smoky flavor is missing.
That evening, we returned to the church for a Polynesian performance of dances and skits. All of the spectators were seated in a large circle around the churchyard. The cruisers were placed together on one side of the circle.
We enjoyed all of the performances. They were extremely creative and funny. The most special was one skit dedicated to all of the English-speaking countries. Prior to the performance, some of us loaned the local dancers several courtesy flags of our countries. So they could perform the skit in English, they also received some quick coaching of the English language. When it was time, the dancers came out wearing the flags hanging from their headwear. The dancers and musicians also sang “You Are My Sunshine” in English, and the cruisers happily sang along with them. My favorite song was the Marquesan version of the “The Lion Sleeps Tonight”.
When arriving in the Marquesas Islands, boats are supposed to clear into French Polynesia at either the islands ofHiva Oaor Nuku Hiva. However, since most boats are coming from Central andSouth America, Fatu Hiva is geographically and most desirably the first island. To go the other islands means missing Fatu Hiva because boats have to beat back against the trade winds. However, the French Polynesian government has become tolerable to boats arriving in Fatu Hiva first. As long as cruisers are honest of their whereabouts, then it’s acceptable to the officials for boats to go to Fatu Hiva for a few days before moving over toHiva Oaor Nuku Hiva to clear into the country.
With all that said, when cruisers arrive in Fatu Hiva, they arrive without any French Polynesian money. There are no banks on Fatu Hiva, and only French Polynesian Francs are accepted. However, the people on Fatu Hiva will gladly trade for goods. They are happy to give food and services in exchange for rum, soaps, body oils, make-up, hair products, clothes, shoes, and toys, as well as fishing gear and lines for their boats. We traded some soap, body oil, toothpaste, chapstick, and toys for a huge bag full of mangos, local apples, lemons, and pamplemouse (grapefruit).
We will never forget the island of Fatu Hiva. Our first landfall at the end of our Pacific crossing, and an absolutely gorgeous island with extremely friendly people.
May 15, 2013
As excited as we were, our first steps onto the beautiful island of Fatu Hiva were going to be a difficult task and would have to wait. A large swell was beginning to roll into the anchorage, creating a large breaking wave at the shore. While the dinghy dock was behind a break wall, the incoming waves would break across the channel to the dinghy dock. Timing between swells was crucial, and we weren’t ready to deal with possibly swamping the dinghy. Therefore, we delayed our trip ashore and scrubbed our very dirty hulls instead.
The high winds, swells, and an overflowing river from the shore created quite a strong out flowing current from the bay. Therefore, in order to scrub our hulls, we tied a line from bow to stern along the hull we were scrubbing. This gave us something to hold onto. We also tied a line from stern to stern, so there was something to catch us if we started to drift away. Then we jumped in with full snorkel gear and scouring pads, and scrubbed away.
Colin helped with scrubbing a hull until he was stung by something in the water. Wil and I continued with the cleaning throughout the morning, only stopping for a brief lunch break, before continuing through the afternoon. While I was exhausted, and could barely move my arms or kick my legs anymore, I didn’t want to stop until Wil was ready to stop. Later, I learned that neither one of us was going to be the first to quit. Due to both of our stubborn personalities, we had scrubbed every bit of growth off of our hulls within our first day of arriving from our Pacific crossing. Other cruisers, who had been there days before us, were envious of our already clean hulls. Although, with great beauty, came great sacrifice. Our bodies ached for days to follow!
That day was also a day for boats dragging anchor. The boats that were anchored at the front of the anchorage near the shore were at the receiving end of the bigger swell in shallower water. Also, a torrential downpour of rain had caused the river dam to break, and the outpouring of water wreaked havoc on the boats anchored nearby. One boat had to put out a stern anchor to keep the swell from pushing them ashore. Another boat chaffed through their anchor rhode, leaving their anchor and all their chain on the bottom. At the same time, their engine didn’t start, and if it weren’t for a bunch of cruisers rushing to their aid, the boat would have ended up on the rocks. And finally, another boat dragged anchor so many times, they finally gave up and sailed out to another island. Because of all the dragging, there was one person that refused to leave their boat for 3 days until the swell subsided. We were very thankful for our very deep water spot of 84 feet which we had decided on the day before.
Later that night, the kids were invited to s/v Sueño for a game night, and the adults would enjoy beverages on s/v Flour Girl. However, after a full day of hull scrubbing, our bodies were spent, and all we wanted to do was go to sleep. So the kids could still have fun, s/v Sueño offered to pick up our kids for us, and bring them back when they were done. We were so thankful for that!
It would be the next day when we would finally step foot on solid ground again.
May 14, 2013
Never in our lives, could we have imagined just how breathtakingly beautiful Fatu Hiva, a remote island in the southern Marquesas, would be. As we approached the Baie des Vierges (Bay of Virgins), we stared in amazement at the gorgeous and rugged landscape.
While enjoying this absolute beauty, we also began to tidy up the boat. Once we navigated behind the island, the wind was blocked by the high mountains, so it was time to wrap up our sails for the first time in 22 days. We coiled lines and packed up our safety harnesses.
Transom bucket baths were also in order, in our Jacuzzi tub, so to speak. We sit at the bottom of the transom with a bucket to pour over our heads, and the ocean water swirls up around us. (Yes, there’s a safety line to keep us from washing over!) As I sat at the base of the transom, sailing along the coast of Fatu Hiva, I thought about how this was a “bath tub” with the best view in the world.
As we made our final approach to the anchorage, the wind funneled between the mountains creating a 30 knot wind on our nose. The anchored boats in the bay ahead were dwarfed by the tall mountains that surrounded them.
Once we were out of the wind, and into the bay, we were greeted by horn blowing and waving arms from those that had landed before us. There were cheers and hellos hollered across the anchorage. Again, we were heart warmed by the camaraderie. The achievement of sailing across thePacific Ocean was celebrated by all.
While we had just sailed across thePacific Ocean, anchoring in the Baie des Vierges proved to be our next challenge. The bay is narrow and deep (over 80 feet) with a shallower 30-foot ledge along the rocky shoreline. There were about 15 boats squeezed into this small anchorage, and they were all dancing wildly on their anchors with every wind gust that funneled between the mountains. We immediately decided that we didn’t want to anchor near the rocks, so we chose a spot out in the center and dropped every bit of our 200 feet of chain to the bottom. While this was only a mere 2.5 to 1 scope, by the end of our time there, we found that our boat was never able to pull the weight of all that chain straight out, even in a sustained 40 knot wind.
We’d barely gotten our anchor down when a fellow cruiser dinghied over to us. While we were talking with him, Colin suddenly and desperately needed to get our attention. Since I was still standing near the helm, I could immediately see that Colin was trying to let us know that our boat was rapidly moving towards another anchored boat. Regardless of the fact that we had a visiting dinghy at our side, I turned on the engines and threw them in reverse. Wil couldn’t figure out what was going on, and our visitor had to let go. We had catapulted forward after having backed down on our anchor. We corrected our situation by gently backing up just until the boat was where it would sit naturally.
Once the boat was settled, and we could breathe a sigh of relief, we embraced the fact that we weren’t moving anymore. Sure, there was a bit of swell in the anchorage, but we weren’t underway anymore. Even though we were eager to step foot on dry land, at the same time we knew there was plenty of time for exploration. We just wanted to relish in the fact that we weren’t moving.
Before we even stepped foot off the boat, we had a few fellow cruisers dinghy over for a quick visit, and before we knew it, we had a cockpit full of fresh fruit. Fruit was abundant onshore, and those that had already been ashore knew just how much we would crave fresh produce after 3 weeks at sea. We were given lemons, grapefruit, and a stock of bananas. We savored the flavor of each and every bite!
Eventually, we got around to lowering the dinghy into the water. We made plans to go ashore, but wanted to stop first at s/v Sweet Surrender for a chat. Phil (s/v Sweet Surrender) was a fellow net controller on the SSB, and we had shared a lot during our passage. They ended up inviting us to stay for drinks, along with several other boats that had been a part of our Beagle Net during the Pacific crossing. We rushed back to give the kids some dinner, and then returned to s/v Sweet Surrender where we visited with s/v Always Saturday, s/v Alua, s/v Elonnisa, and s/v Gypsy 4.
With all of the activity since dropping the anchor, we managed to power through our watch schedule nap times that had taken place daily over the past 3 weeks. By the end of the evening, we were exhausted, and even though our bodies were still “on watch”, neither one of us had trouble falling asleep. The moment our heads hit our pillows we slept like babies for the entire night. What luxury!
Tomorrow would be a new day. Tomorrow we would place our feet on solid ground and begin to explore this island of beauty.
April 23 – May 13, 2013
Day 2: The clew to the mainsail tore apart from its attachment to the boom. Fortunately, Wil happened to notice the separation in the webbing before the foot of the main came totally loose. We put a reef in the main, and continued to sail while we made repairs. What Wil thought would be an easy afternoon of sewing, turned into three afternoons of hard work, and the job is still not completely finished.
First, we had to remove all damaged webbing and threads, as well as further open the protective leather covering. Then, after much trial and error, we were able to stitch some rock climbing webbing over top of the original good webbing. Between the sail thickness and the webbing, there were a lot of layers to punch through with a needle. Therefore, we sharpened a nail punch to create an awl of sorts. Using a mallet, we’d beat through the layers and then push the needle through. We still have to sew the leather covering back into position. However, we were tired, and even today, we still dread the thought of driving a needle again.
Day 3: This one was a doozy!! Wil opened the starboard engine room to check on something, and he got the surprise of his life. The engine room was rapidly filling with water, and the free spinning transmission was spraying the water over the entire room. (This room houses our lithium batteries, battery charger, inverter, and watermaker, not to mention the whole host of wires and electrical connections!) It also didn’t take long to realize that the electric bilge pump wasn’t working. The manual bilge pump was attempted, but it had come disconnected. We very quickly got out a portable 12-volt pump that we have onboard, and ran a hose out of the engine room and into the cockpit. We tried to run it overboard, but the steepness of the slope didn’t allow for a fast enough flow.
Once most of the water was out of the engine room, Wil was able to assess where the water was coming from. To our surprise, it was the brand-new, bronze thru-hull fitting to the raw water engine intake. The threads had cracked! The potential for disaster was extremely serious, and the leak had to be stopped. Before going overboard with a plug, Wil made a few attempts to stop the water from within the engine room. One of those attempts was with Rescue Tape, and it failed. It would not adhere to itself. Ultimately, the thru-hull ended up with 5200 smeared onto it, wrapped with a piece of heavy duty rubber glove, and cinched tight with 2 hose clamps. Eventually, the water inflow was slowed to about one cup every 24 hours. A much more acceptable rate!
In the event that this temporary fix didn’t hold, Wil placed an emergency stash of tools and plugs in a nearby lazarette. For many days to follow, we held our breath with constant worry. To this day, the original fix is still holding. Since haul-out facilities are so far away, we are constantly thinking about how we can replace the thru-hull without being hauled.
Day 6: We were sailing beautifully along under genaker alone when suddenly we heard a loud pop. We rushed to deck to find the base of the genaker detached and flying high. The shackle that holds the furler to the sprit had broken and disappeared. We immediately released the genaker halyard and wrestled the genaker to the deck. Once we had a new shackle in place, the sail was raised and back to normal.
All was good again, but by this time we were starting to get jumpy. Our nerves were more and more frazzled with each new noise.
~Day 9: A second brand-new, bronze thru-hull produced cracked threads!! It was in the same starboard engine room, just on the opposite side. Fortunately, this thru-hull was discovered before the engine room filled with water. The only thing we could deduce by this time was that we’re still having electrolysis issues. Both of these thru-hulls were bonded. The bronze thru-hulls in the port engine room appear to be fine, and they are not bonded. We have since removed the bonding from the leaking thru-hulls. Wil repeated his temporary fix in the same manner as the previous thru-hull.
Day 10: The autopilot started to overheat and kick itself into standby. Yikes! We were roughly halfway, with about 1500 miles to go, and the idea of having to hand-steer for 10 or more days was a dreaded thought. At first, Wil ran an extension cord to a fan which he situated near the autopilot. After referring to the manual and speaking to Pete on Saliander, he eventually used a mallet to tap away any possible carbon buildup on the brushes. Then, he installed a more permanent 12-volt fan directly above the autopilot. After that, the autopilot continued to run without overheating. Whew!
~Day 15: We forgot to tighten up on the topping lift and didn’t realize that the boom was touching the bimini. As the boat moved with the waves, even though the traveler was tight, the boom rubbed a hole in the bimini. This is when we kick ourselves for not noticing something so simple!
Day 17: After having such great winds at the start of our passage, we gradually reached winds that were 10 knots from our stern. Therefore, we flew the spinnaker for quite a few days and nights. Normally, we follow good practice by always reducing sail at night. However, with the wind dead on our stern, and no way to pole out our regular sails, the boat would wallow in the waves causing the sails to flap and slam. It was tough on the rigging, noisy to listen to, and an uncomfortable ride. Therefore, we began flying the spinnaker at night. When the spinnaker was up, we watched the horizon and the radar like a hawk, keeping an eye on any squalls. If there was any doubt, we pulled the spinnaker down.
On this particular night, Wil saw a squall coming, so he pulled down the spinnaker. Once the squall had passed, he raised the spinnaker again. The sky was clear and the stars were bright. Suddenly, the boat speed rapidly increased to over 10 knots. In a matter of seconds, the wind jumped from 9 knots to 30 knots. With the increased wind, the tail end of a line that was tied to the port clew of the spinnaker blew off the trampoline and straight overboard. This was not a small line by any means! Almost immediately, this line wrapped around the free spinning port prop.
Pulled out of a restless sleep, I was called to deck and instructed not to start the port engine. There was no time for Wil to explain details. We just needed to get the spinnaker down. As Wil tried to pull the spinnaker sock down, the wind was so strong that he was literally being lifted off the deck. We had to work as a team. As he pulled the sock line, I needed to tail the line around the cleat. Eventually, little by little we got the spinnaker down. We both collapsed on the foredeck when all was safe again.
Next we had to focus on the fact that there was a line wrapped around the prop, but that could wait until morning. When the next day arrived, dealing with a fouled prop was the last thing we felt like doing. The idea of getting into the water to untangle the prop was not appealing. Fortunately, after reporting our mishap on the Beagle Net, we received some good advice from s/v Always Saturday. We could attempt to turn the shaft from inside the engine room.
Later that afternoon, we executed our plan. With Justine at the helm, we turned the boat into the wind in order to bring us to a stop. Wil went into the engine room to turn the shaft leading to the prop. I stood at the stern pulling the tangled line. Surprisingly, the line came out with ease. Within 5 minutes, we were doing high fives all around. We were amazed at the quick success. Another sigh of relief!
April 23 – May 13, 2013
Everyday for 21 days, with very little variation, we maintained a fairly constant routine.
Each morning, as Wil was finishing his graveyard watch, he would have a walkabout on deck. This was the perfect time to see what daylight would expose. This was his way of finding out if anything was out of place or about to break. Fortunately, on this passage, the walk only entailed ridding the deck of the numerous flying fish & squid that had landed on deck during the night.
I could count on Wil to wake me by 0715 each morning. This gave me 15 minutes to shake any grogginess and get ready for the morning edition of the Beagle Net on the SSB radio. Before leaving the Galapagos, several of us had organized a twice daily radio contact with everyone in the fleet who were crossing the Pacific around the same time.
By 0730, I was on the radio listening to the positions and weather conditions of the twenty-some boats that were also sailing the Pacific passage. Many times I would relay for net control when the controller couldn’t hear a boat with a weaker signal, and Saturdays were my days as net controller.
Since there were so many boats reporting into the Net, it would usually take an hour to get everyone’s positions. During this time, Wil would fall asleep on the salon seat next to me. By then, Colin would have crawled out of his bunk to check on the new day.
Colin was responsible for putting out the fishing lines first thing, sometimes using the squid or flying fish for bait. Then, he would keep an eye on the horizon, as well as the fishing lines, while Wil napped and I was on radio duty. Once the Beagle Net ended, then Wil would resume his sleep in our cabin, and I would take over the morning activities.
During our first week at sea, school did not happen. In addition to feeling a tad seasick, Justine had picked up Colin’s cold. At the same time, while Colin had gotten over his cold, he and I were both suffering from some form of Traveler’s diarrhea. Needless to say, in addition to trying to find our sea legs, and dealing with a few mishaps early on, we didn’t have the energy for any schoolwork. Once we found our sea legs, got over our sicknesses, and had settled into a good routine, the schoolwork became part of our morning schedule.
By the time the kids had eaten their breakfast and gotten a couple of school topics under their belt, Wil would emerge from his 1-2 hour nap in time for lunch. He would either assist with school or make lunch. During this time, all of us would take turns doing brief horizon checks.
Each day our routine was almost always interspersed with several other main events. Sometimes it was a fish (or three) on the line. Sometimes it was a major or minor mishap. Or sometimes a passing squall. Other times, we’d work on small chores.
The sight of another vessel on the horizon, or on the AIS, was always a cause for excitement. There were lots of fishing vessels during our first night, just past the Galapagos, hanging outside the border of the nature reserve. On day 5, we sighted an unidentified ship on the horizon. On day 8, we saw our first sail on the horizon. It happened to belong to Calico Jack, some good friends of ours who we’d met in the Galapagos. They don’t have SSB, so their only form of radio contact is via close-range VHF. It was a nice surprise to be able to talk to them for the next couple of days, until we got too far past them. On day 17, a large freighter-sized fishing vessel passed within 2 miles of our stern.
Every afternoon, once the kids were done with school, then they would lie around reading books, listening to music, or watching movies on their iPods. Occasionally, we’d have family games of Skip-Bo or work on our French together. The kids were always on standby for any on-deck duties.
By about 1430 in the afternoon, I’d start to feel ready for my nap. If nothing was going on, I’d lay down right away. Sometimes we were too busy catching fish or dealing with mishaps, and my nap would have to wait. Three days a week, I had an afternoon ham radio contact, so my nap would have to wait until after the contact. By the time my head hit the pillow, I had no trouble falling asleep for a couple of hours.
Every Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday afternoon, I’d have ham radio contact with my dad, Wil’s mom, and a good family friend, Bob. Even though I did regular SPOT and Winlink position reports, it was a chance to verbally touch base with family back home. It was always great to hear their voices!
Wil would wake me up from my nap anytime between 1630 and 1730 hours. As soon as I was moving again, I’d start getting dinner ready. On most days, I’d have dinner ready (or almost ready) by 1800 hours. At 1800 hours, I’d leave the galley to Wil, and I’d get on the SSB radio for a chat with Pete & Rae on Saliander. While I was on the radio, Wil would serve dinner to everyone, including me at the radio.
At 1830 hours, it was time for the evening edition of the Beagle Net. I would continue to eat my dinner at the nav table while writing down boat positions and doing any necessary relays. The evening net usually had a lot of loud radio interference. It was difficult to hear everyone, and by the end of the hour, we were all more than ready for the radio to be turned off.
While I was still on the evening Beagle Net, Wil would keep an eye on the darkening horizon, and make sure the sails were set for the night. As soon as I was off the radio, Wil would go down for his nighttime sleep, and I would take over the next 6 hours (usually 8 pm to 2 am).
At the beginning of my night watch, I would take this time to check email and chat with the kids. Many times, I’d read the emails to the kids. While I was outside, checking the horizon, and admiring the stars and the rising moon, the kids would come out to see the night sky. We’d always locate the Southern Cross, the Big Dipper, Orion, and the Milky Way. The Southern Cross became my night time comfort. If I could see it, then all was good.
The kids would usually say good-night to me around 2200 hours. I knew it was a late bedtime for them, but I enjoyed their company. They were there in case I needed a hand, and having them around also helped my night watch pass more quickly.
Once the kids were in bed, the night was my own. Interspersed with my horizon checks, I’d study weather gribs for daily passage planning, do small chores, compose emails, and eventually watch a movie on the iPad. I was surprised at how many of my night watches went by so quickly. There were several times when I accidentally went overtime, and Wil would get some extra sleep. He was always very thankful for the extra rest.
When I was in tune to the time, I’d usually wake Wil at about 0145, give or take. While he was waking up and getting ready for his watch, I’d do my final horizon check. Then, I’d brief Wil on the night’s activities, say good night, and head off to bed.
During Wil’s night watch, he’d read books in between his horizon checks. He completed the entire Harry Potter series! By about 0600 his eyelids would get heavy and he’d start to drift off. Therefore, he set his alarm for 18 minute increments, so he could make sure all was good. Throughout the entire watch, he’d always make it a goal to find a shooting star during each horizon check, and he was usually successful.
Then, came another day, and the cycle would start all over again. In order to keep track of our days, I’d made a blank calendar for the crossing. It had 20 boxes, with room to add more. Each day, we’d fill in the day’s highlights or how we were feeling. Watching the calendar fill, made it easier to accept each day that we were at sea.
Fortunately, we made landfall the next afternoon. It was the afternoon of our 22nd day, and it was a day of many emotions. There was an incredible sense of relief and achievement. Excitement and exhaustion. A wonder of what this beautiful land would bring and very happy to be there.
April 23, 2013
It was on a Tuesday morning near 0900 hours when we hauled the anchor from Isabela Island in the Galapagos. Anxiety and excitement turned in our stomachs. We would be sailing into the biggest unknown of our lives.
There was a good wind that had arrived to help us bid farewell to the Galapagos. Half the fleet in the anchorage had left a few days before. Some had left the day before. We had planned to depart the previous day, but Colin had come down with a fever. Was it just a normal fever associated with a general cold virus? Or was it some tropical disease that he’d picked up along the way? We couldn’t head out into the middle of the Pacific Ocean not knowing the answer.
Fortunately, his fever broke the next day and Colin only had normal cold symptoms. We would at least begin our passage, and we could turn back at any time during the first few days.
As we pulled away from the anchorage, our hearts were warmed by the horn blowing and waving arms we received by many in the anchorage. Our friends were cheering us on. Some we would see on the other side. Some we were bidding farewell to, for we were heading in different directions. Amidst the excitement, there was some sadness.
The anchorage slowly disappeared behind us, and it was time to look forward. We motor sailed for about an hour until we were away from the land affected wind. Soon we had a good 12-15 knots of SE wind on the beam, and we were cruising along at 8 knots. We were off to a great start.
About a dozen tiny Galapagos storm petrels fed in our wake. They almost appeared to walk on the water’s surface when they came down to feed in the disturbed water. Dolphins also appeared to escort us as we sailed into the big wide ocean.
I felt nervous again, as our first nightfall approached. What would the wind do? Would we get caught in a sudden squall? During my first night watch, the wind increased to 15-20 knots, so I woke Wil to assist with sail changes. Leaving ourselves with a full main, we rolled in the genaker and put out a partially furled jib.
I felt like I needed to be pinched. Were we really going to sail across the Pacific Ocean?
Stay tuned for what our daily lives were like during our 21 ½ days at sea, as well as what sorts of mishaps happened along the way!